For a long time the Jura was the corner of France that wine lists skipped. That has changed. Bottles from old-guard names like Macle and Puffeney now sell for hundreds of dollars once they leave the cellar, and the region's best small growers have far more buyers than wine. Domaine Bornard is one of those growers, and we have eight of its wines in Vietnam right now.

How Marcel Lapierre turned Morgon into the home of natural Beaujolais, what his children make today, and where to find the wines in Vietnam.