Winemaker's Portrait - Champagne Pertois Moriset - Interview with Vincent Bauchet
[GG] Do you have a specific memory of a moment in your life when you became certain that you wanted to pursue a career as a winemaker?
[VB] It's hard to pinpoint the exact moment when I realized I wanted to become a winemaker. In fact, it wasn't something I even considered before I actually became one. I started working in my father's vineyard as a vineyard worker as a punishment for my poor school performance as a kid. It wasn't until later, after working with my father-in-law and marrying my wife Cécile, that I truly understood what it meant to be a winemaker and a vineyard manager. Being a winemaker isn't just about tending to the vines, it's also about making and selling wine, as well as managing employees and the business aspects of the operation.
[GG] What has surprised you the most about your job as a winemaker?
[VB] As I mentioned before, being a winemaker is not just about working in the vineyard, but also about making wine. Nowadays, the job requires much more than that. Administrative paperwork can be a significant psychological burden in our profession, and it's something that often takes people by surprise.
On the bright side, one of the best parts of the job is meeting people who are genuinely interested in what we do. It's incredibly rewarding to talk to passionate individuals who share our love for winemaking and who dream of becoming winemakers themselves. These conversations are a delight, and it's always a pleasure to share our knowledge about the craft and the process of making each specific wine.
[GG] How has your job as a winemaker evolved over the past 10 years?
[VB] I'm not sure if I'm answering the right question, but one significant change I've noticed among Champagne winemakers over the past decade is the emphasis on terroir in their cuvées. Ten years ago, we didn't talk about terroir in Champagne, and we had never heard of specific vineyards, villages, or terroirs. However, today, every winemaker who wants to stand out from the large Champagne houses and merchants highlights their terroir, cru, or village. This is because winemakers understand that consumers want to know where the grapes come from, how they were grown, and the methods used to make the wine, which is often impossible to know with large Champagne houses.
Are you a fan of Champagne and looking for a winery with a rich family history and tradition? Look no further than Champagne Pertois-Moriset! This independent family estate has been producing exceptional wines since 1951, and their commitment to quality and excellence has been passed down through generations.
[GG] If you weren't a winemaker, what would you be doing?
[VB] To be honest, I'm not sure. I love traveling, being in nature, and the mountains. I also love wine. Perhaps I'll end up working in a restaurant or a wine shop in the mountains, or like you, working in the wine industry abroad.
[GG] What is your favorite place in Champagne, not necessarily related to wine?
[VB] The best place for me is with my friends! It's not necessarily my vineyards or my winery (even though I love them), but being with my friends is definitely where I prefer to be.
[GG] Could you share an interesting story or anecdote about your winery or your wines that you particularly enjoy telling?
[VB] I have a true anecdote to share, back when I first started working with my father-in-law. During harvest, he told me, "you know, kid, this plot we're picking right now, my father used to say it was the best one in the vineyard." I replied, "then why do you sell the grapes from this plot to the wine merchants?" He couldn't give me a convincing answer, so the following year, I decided to make my first single vineyard wine called "Les Jutées" just to see if my grandfather-in-law was right or not.
[GG] Is there any personal characteristic of yours that can be found in your wines? Your personal touch?
[VB] Without any pretension on my part, I think that now all of our cuvées are purely personal creations. In any case, there is not much left of my father-in-law's classic style.
[GG] If we were to dive into your personal wine cellar, what would we find?
[VB] We have a lot of French wines from all regions of France, but not only. We also have foreign wines such as Californian or Italian wines. Here are a few examples: in Corsica, we have Vaccelli or Clos Venturi; in the Loire Valley, there is La Grange Typhaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire, Denisot in Sancerre, and Fred Niger around Nantes. In Burgundy, there is Bruno Colin in Chassagne, and in the Rhône, we have Vieux Télégraphe, and so on.
[GG] What is your favorite drink after work?
[VB] "After work, a good beer, of course!"
[GG] What is your go-to food and wine pairing?
[VB] Honestly, I don't mind opening a bottle worth 80/100€ with a pizza. As long as my guests and I enjoy it!
[GG] Can you describe the "Assemblage" cuvée without describing the wine?
[VB] Without describing the wine, I would simply say that it's the perfect bottle to discover our estate and enjoy without breaking the bank. Both a novice and a seasoned wine enthusiast will be able to enjoy it for a very reasonable price.
Thank you Vincent for taking time to answers our questions and we are looking forward to welcome you again in Vietnam in November 2023 where we will host a few events together.
READ MORE ABOUT PERTOIS MORISET!
The House's story began with the marriage of Yves Pertois and Janine Moriset, two former winemaking families in the Côte de Blancs. In 1951, they created the brand Pertois-Moriset, which has since flourished with the addition of Dominique and Florence and is now managed by their granddaughter Cécile and her husband Vincent.
With over 20 hectares of vineyards spanning two terroirs, Champagne Pertois-Moriset produces a diverse range of wines that capture the essence of the Champagne region. The Côte de Blancs, with its Grand Cru designation and 100% Chardonnay predominance, covers approximately 13.4 hectares. Meanwhile, the Coteaux Sézannais, comprising 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, covers approximately 7.3 hectares. As a family estate, Champagne Pertois-Moriset is committed to producing exceptional wines that reflect their unique history and tradition.
Whether you're a wine connoisseur or a casual drinker, a visit to this esteemed House is sure to be an unforgettable experience. With each sip of their delicious Champagne, you'll taste the passion and expertise that has been passed down through generations of this exceptional family estate.
SUSTAINABILITY IS THE KEY!
Champagne is loved by many as one of the best sparkling wines in the world. But, sadly, the way it is produced has been causing harm to the environment. That's why some Champagne producers, like Champagne Pertois Moriset, are taking steps to reduce their impact on the environment by using sustainable practices. They are trying to make sure that they can keep making Champagne for generations to come without causing any harm to the earth.
To protect the vines and grapes from pests, such as moths, Champagne Pertois Moriset uses a special technique that involves the use of pheromones. These are natural "chemicals" that mess up the mating behavior of pests and reduce their numbers without any harmful pesticides. This helps the vineyard to stay healthy and sustainable, without harming the environment.
In winter, the vineyard naturally grows grass, which promotes healthy soil and prevents soil erosion. In summer, the soil is ploughed to keep it aerated and encourage the growth of helpful microorganisms. All the machines used for vineyard management are electric, so they don't produce harmful emissions that damage the environment. These sustainable practices not only protect the environment, but they also ensure that the vineyard stays healthy and produces high-quality grapes for delicious Champagne.
One of the natural methods used is the practice of sexual confusion. This involves the use of pheromones to disrupt the mating behavior of certain pests, such as moths. This technique reduces the numbers of pests and, in turn, the need for chemical pesticides. The result is a vineyard that is not only sustainable but also environmentally friendly.
In addition, the vineyard naturally grasses its vineyards in winter, promoting soil health and minimizing erosion. During summer, the soil is ploughed, which helps to aerate it and promote the growth of beneficial microorganisms. All mechanical work is carried out using a 100% electric tractor, reducing the carbon footprint of vineyard management.
By adopting these sustainable practices, Champagne Pertois Moriset is promoting environmentally friendly practices and producing high-quality organic wines. Their sustainable approach to vineyard management ensures that their vineyard remains healthy, vibrant, and in harmony with the natural ecosystem surrounding it.
In summary, Champagne Pertois Moriset is a great example of how to make Champagne without hurting the environment. They're doing this by using sustainable practices that not only protect the earth, but also promote healthier ways of growing grapes. They're showing that it's possible to make Champagne in a way that's good for everyone, including future generations.